Van Life and landscape photography on the California coast in January
A full week of beach camping on the Central and Southern California Coast
After several months away, I finally made my way back to California from Texas, eager to reunite with the ocean. This road trip wasn't just about soaking in the sun and landscape photography; I also had appointments to attend and visits with friends and family lined up along the way. The anticipation of reconnecting with loved ones and the calming presence of the sea filled me with excitement as I hit the open road. Each stop along my journey reminded me of the deep connections I hold in this vibrant state, and I looked forward to embracing them all once again.
The Curlew and Sea Mist of Morro Strand State Beach
Reconnecting with the California Coast at Morro Bay
Taking JOY, my van, to Morro Bay feels like a homecoming as I head for my first stop on the California coast. This stretch of beach has become a familiar canvas over my five years of living the nomadic van life. From my campsite, I can stroll about two miles down the sandy shore to Morro Rock, though I typically don't go that far. Instead, I relish the journey, pausing to capture the quirks of nature—like a sand dollar adorned with a barnacle or the graceful movement of a Long-billed Curlew. Each step is an opportunity to explore reflections shimmering in the wet sand or to gauge the rhythm of the sea mist curling around Morro Rock.
Golden hour at sunset is my favorite time to take these walks, where the light bathes everything in a warm glow. On my first evening here, I opted for a minimalist approach, bringing just my 100-400 lens, ready to immerse myself in the thrill of photographing birds, this time, the Long Billed Curlew. This place, with its ever-changing shoreline and wildlife, never fails to fill my heart with joy and inspiration.
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Thornhill Broome Beach Camping-The Rocky One
After three nights camping at Morro Strand Beach, JOY and I travelled south about 3 hours to another beach I love returning to, Thornhill Broome. It’s another beach where you’re right on the edge of the sand with an unobstructed view of the Pacific Ocean and those tranquil sunsets every evening. There’s one thing to note about this campground however, the Pacific Coast Highway runs just over the chain link fence about 30 years from camp. The sound of the traffic doesn’t bother me at all, but some people will find it too objectionable. At night the traffic dies down tremendously.
Thornhill Broome is just north of Malibu and with the sad and catastrophic wildfires still burning in the LA area, I was unsure how that may affect access because all the homes along the PCH in Malibu had been early victims of the Palisades fire a week prior. It was extraordinarily windy the afternoon I arrived and happened to catch a strong gust in the video below.
Why was Thornhill Broome Campground Empty?
In years past, this popular campground was difficult to book, so when I first saw it empty when rounding the bend in the PCH from 2 miles away at Point Mugu, I wondered “what’s up with this?” No wonder I was able to get a campsite so easily when I booked it while in Morro Bay only two days prior. It was virtually empty. Only one other party camping here! Maybe it was due to the raging fires happening just south of me in the LA area. Or, my other visits were during Covid and many more people were out in RV’s vying for the few sites available. Could be both.
There’s also a third possibility; the rocks on the beach. There have always been lots of softball sized and larger rocks on this beach. They add to the uniqueness of this beach, not just for photography, but just listening to the sound of the rocks rolling around in the surf. You don’t hear that everywhere. Well, being my first visit here since the wild winter storms a year ago, I saw how much things have changed.
My campsite this time was #10. I used to camp in #1,#2 or #3 but they no longer exist! Campsites one through nine are wiped out, as nature reclaims part of herself. The storms also changed the beach in another way, as it seems that many many more of those rocks have been deposited making it difficult to access the surf unless you walk south a couple hundred yards where it’s possible to pick a path through them. All these rocks make this beach less appealing to families with children and people who want easier access to the water from their campsite.
My time here was short, two nights and one full day, which gave me two sunsets and two sunrises for photography. I didn’t do any sunrise photography out of laziness and because of the unappealing nature of the light at that location, that time of day. So, on my second morning, I just made the bed, coffee and got back on the road South through Los Angeles where active fires have traffic in a state of flux.
Carlsbad Beach Campground
Okay, so this was the only disappointment, if disappointment is even possible on the west coast. At Morro Bay I ran into another Vanlifer guy, Steve. In our short exchange he inspired me to try Carlsbad Beach State Campground. He had just stayed there a few days before. Also, I was heading to Carlsbad the next day anyway to visit a friend and some family.
Looking at the online registration, I could get the last “premium” site for $70 or, $55 for a site just across the narrow road that runs down the middle of the campground. Treating myself to a premium site, right on the beach sounded like the right thing to do since this was my final stop on the coast and I don’t know when I might be back again.
Assuming that for $68 (they give seniors a whopping $2 discount at all state campgrounds) that the site would have electricity to plug the van in. Nope. All the premium site got me was a commanding view of the beach 100 feet below me. So you’re not directly next to the beach camping here as it appears when looking at the campground on a map. The campground is on a bluff above the beach. Had I been only slightly more inquisitive, that feature would have been revealed. It wouldn’t have changed my decision to stay there though because I’m in Carlsbad mainly to see some of my peeps.
Leo Carrillo Ranch Historic Park
On my second day in Carlsbad, visiting Leo Carrillo Ranch Historic Park was a delightful experience. My son and his partner picked me up from my campground, and the three of us set off to explore the unique blend of history and nature that Leo Carrillo Ranch offers. With its picturesque adobe buildings and stunning landscapes, we wandered through the ranch, appreciating the lush gardens and rich history of the area.
After soaking in all that beauty, we met up with my friend Pam, adding to our group's joy. The day culminated in a fabulous Thai dinner, where we shared laughs and delicious dishes, making it a perfect end to our adventure of the day and my time on the west coast.
Tomorrow I head East to The Fountain of Youth
The Fountain of Youth RV Resort is such a fabulous place to stay in the middle of… not much. For me, the draw is; the hot mineral pools and private soaking tubs. Photographically, there’s an abundance of opportunity within a 10 minute drive at Bombay Beach on the Salton Sea, full of every changing art installations. I’ll tell you a lot more about that with many photos, next time.
Watch this space…
